Good info guys. I didn't think about not melting the coating off. Also I had just assumed they were welded together.
There is a pair of multicells listed on ebay that says the horns have been "repaired" and welds are "tight". Wonder how they repaired those?
Shit, that pair just sold for 895$ plus freight charges
If you look at the joints in the pictures you can see spots were the solder is showing under the paint.
Somebody help me out here, wasn't there photo's of the Altec horn shop posted showing horns being built? Not the cast horns but the built up steel horns. Might get some clues there.
How you decide to repair them is up to you, epoxy, rivet in a steel patch or resoldering them with a new patch. No matter what, they will sound great.
If you decide to do any soldering on them, find someone with experience in soldering sheet metal. If you ever saw a radiator repair guy replace a brass tank, they make it look so easy. It probably is with 20 or 30 years of experience doing it. I know I'd wind up with a big mess on my hands, and I've been using torches for most of my life.
Keep us posted on how you proceed, I don't think this has been discussed before.
BillWojo
I agree they look soldered to me, a common manufacturing technique during the the era of multi cell horns. I would look for a metal working shop that that still utilizes those skill, such as a radiators shop, or possibly a motor cycle shop that builds oil tanks and fuel tanks. Looks like a simple fix of aligning thing correctly and soldering using the proper solder, and soldering techniques.Originally Posted by BillWojo
I like the professional solder method.
If that is not available then this may be an option: SteelStik Epoxy Putty Stick
| J-B Weld
Opinion is only as valid as its verifiable supporting evidence.
Thanks guys. Very good info. I might just know someone who is an old school tradesman that can do this.
I will probably use them as-is for now until I can get the one horn fixed. The damage is on the bottom, and cannot be seen unless one gets within a few feet. I think this is mostly a cosmetic issue but it still bugs me.
Now I just need to get GPA diaphragms for my 291C drivers, and get another 515b for my 828 cabs. A7 to A5 conversion will be complete!
Original construction is hand knocked and sweat tin.
Mah is spot on.
Hammer out the body work, structurally repair with JBWeld(epoxy) and clamp if necessary.
Restore original smoothness with fiber free body filler or spot putty.
To re-sweat them, the area needs to be totally free of paint and damping compound. IMO, this creates a more daunting challenge.
Note the irons hanging on the end of the bench and a couple "in the fire" (not RoHS compliant)
Last edited by bowtie427ss; September 8th, 2017 at 08:34 AM.
Not all vegetables make good leaders.
Thanks for the info (and pic) bowtie! I think I can do that repair
I want to disturb these as little as possible. I don't think I can replicate the coating very easily.
Do you have any idea of the date these were manufactured? They came from the Market Square Arena in Indy. I'll have to research the venue and maybe I can get an idea when they were installed.
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IMG_9494.jpg
Think they were part of the hanging system. I read the arena completed in 1974, and closed in 1999
Bowtie, what photo hosting site do you use now?
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